Baseline compound ranges and adjustments were built from:
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MG Tires – Tips
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Nashville Karting Group – MG tyre pressure guide
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TKART – the Vega method for kart tyre pressure
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Vega USA – XM4 & XH4 compound specs
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Flow Racers – go-kart tyre pressure reference
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KartletiX – setting tyre pressures
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Dunlop Kartsport Australia
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Karting Australia – LeCont LH03 AUS dry tyre spec (2022–2026)
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Patrizicorse – Karting Australia 2022–2026 LeCont competition tyre FAQ
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KartSportNews – KA 2025 rule book (Maxxis Sport / 4SS, LeCont / Rotax)
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DWT Racing – M-Series LV magnesium wheel
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Open-Meteo – free weather forecast & historical weather data (the Weather card)
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Karting Queensland – affiliated clubs & track specs
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KartSportNews – Cooloola Coast rebuild report
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KartClass – QLD outdoor track lengths & turn counts
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CRG Factory Race Team / SSC Racing – chassis & tyre setup manual
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KartletiX – How more weight changes the kart
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KartPulse – Does driver weight affect tire pressures?
On driver weight: every source agrees that a heavier kart flexes the tyre carcass more, which builds more heat, so pressure climbs further from cold to hot (KartletiX). The app keeps each tyre’s hot target fixed and moves where you start cold: a driver heavier than a typical driver for the class starts lower, a lighter one starts higher. That matches a measured case on KartPulse (a driver ran about 2 psi higher than a teammate 11 kg heavier) and KartletiX’s advice that drivers who struggle to get heat into the tyres need more pressure. The size of the effect is an estimate — 0.05 psi per kg away from the class reference (Cadet 40, Junior 55, Senior 75, Senior Heavy 90 kg, in race gear), capped at ±1.5 psi. Sources don’t fully agree: KartletiX argues a heavier kart may need
more pressure to support the sidewall, and one KartPulse reply says driving style matters more than weight. If a heavy kart feels floaty or the tyre rolls over, go up rather than down.
Learning from your log: with “Learn from my logged pressures” on, any wheel where you have logged a cold
and hot reading at the same track on the same tyre uses the rise you actually measured (average of your last 3 sessions) instead of the estimate — cold fill = hot target − your measured rise. That’s the CRG factory method done automatically, and it already includes your weight and driving style. Readings where hot isn’t higher than cold, or where it rises more than 8 psi, are skipped as likely typos.
Bridgestone YDS and the OTK/CRG wheel entries have very little published pressure data, so they're treated as close to the generic baseline — a rougher starting point than the others until you log your own numbers against them.
On left/right split — what's a rule of thumb vs what's real: cornering weight transfers onto the outside tyres, so a track with more right-hand corners loads and heats the left-side tyres harder (and vice versa) — that side gets set 0.15 psi lower cold as a
starting-point heuristic. But there is no published, authoritative left/right psi number — the CRG factory manual's own method isn't a formula either: run equal pressures as a baseline, then after a session record each corner's actual hot reading and nudge that corner's own cold fill until all four rise a consistent ~2 psi. That's exactly what the Measured pressures grid in the Session Log is for.
Your own data beats all of this: your sync code (top of the page) carries your session log and remembered track settings to any device you open the same code on. Tap "Remember grip & direction for this track" once you know a track, and log your measured pressures every session — that becomes more accurate than any generic source here.